given the enthusiastic description of buddies who Mariners had passed, "BAHIA" pointed his bow over the Rio Guadiana in southern Portugal. It has was not disappointed.
After descending along the English coast, and the passage of the Strait of Gibraltar, so we found the waters of the Atlantic, we left three years ago. We must therefore get used to the tides and currents, the "Big Blue" and its dolce vita tend to sleep a little sailor with the ease it provides, in addition to his sudden anger sometimes.
We have before us the Bay of Cadiz, with the ultimate goal in the Algarve, its going up rivers, including the Rio Guadiana to the border between Spain and Portuguese. Reading guides (sometimes old), but especially the incentive of several friends had been dating the main destination of the cruise.
The first step is to Sact Petri River, south of Cadiz. Who said tidal currents said, sandbars, and alignments (not very visible). Then it will be an anchor (the marinas are excluded) at the entrance to the river of Huelva, large industrial city, which really does not attract us.
Cap on El Rompido, a river separated from the Atlantic by a narrow dune that stretches nearly five miles. Sandbanks, a buoy Landing moved and strong currents will give us some heat to enter. " Cons by wetting before the village is friendly to both headlights, and we spend several days at anchor in the river upstream. Solitude and tranquility guaranteed. There simply walk across the dunes - off a few hundred yards - to go across sea-bathing!
It is time to see this famous Guadiana, which we heard so much good. The wind is pretty cool for several days, force 5-6, reinforcing the afternoon. The entrance to the Guadiana, crowded schools, is well marked laterally, and offers no major problems. It is recommended to go with the flow, which will push us to Vila Real de San Antonio on the Portuguese side.
The city stands out clearly from the English cities: coquettish ornaments and houses, clean streets. By changing the contrast of country is strong. Almost opposite of Vila Real is the English town of Ayamonte, where we will stop in return. In recent years, a suspension bridge links the two shores and two countries, just after Ayamonte. The available height is 22 m high sea, the mast of "Bahia" pass without problems with his 14m50. As the day, the wind dies down a lot at slack low tide is the time we choose to ascend the river, so we returned the waves. The banks once past the bridge is quite flat.
We see many fincas in ruins, on each bank. As to the return, the banks otok, vegetation becomes denser. And 3 h after the start, we drop anchor at Guerreiros. A wharf is connected by a passerrelle to the bank. The village seems asleep a few lights, crushed heat. It must be said that the temperature approaching 35 degrees! No tax payable, the dock is free as long as there is room. Only a few small fishing boats are moored.
The next day, some nice Belgian moored behind us. They are roundtrip Belgium-Guadiana every year! Fortunately a wind strong enough to temper the heat, and the local beer too ... Somehow we manage to make ourselves understood with a fisherman at the local bar, which tells us that further up the river, it is even hotter. This is where we go ...
The third day of departure is decided. Always a head wind between 20 and 25 knots. After multiple attempts to repair the HB of the Annex, a mechanic from the corner managed to do spit for 5 euros and a glass of Malaga! Unfortunately it makes the soul shortly after. (Motor, not the mechanic!)
Depart 16 am, with the beginning of the stream. The river banks are wild. We pass the small town of Alcoutim, which makes for a village on the English shore. Many boats are anchored there, anchors or mooring. This is the final destination for many of those upriver.
We still twists in the maze, more and more steep and wooded. Herons and storks are only slightly disturbed by our passage. Finally one last elbow Pomarao discovered, the terminus of our ascent. A small town warmth and crushed white, beneath which are two jetties. It is 38 degrees in the shade, "only" 30 ° in the boat!
We descend to the ground and assemble in the village, only to refresh our coffee shop. This is the "sociedad" bar where we taste the City "sagres locale for ... 40 cts euros.! On the terrace Donminique River. We are quickly informed Gwillem and his wife, an English couple who have chosen Pomarao as places to live aboard their sailboat, Richard English, too, the painter who lives on a lonely old Colin Archer ferro, waiting to move into the ruins he retypes on one bank. Neighbors table, without saying a word, we tend garlic bread and chorizo. The Portuguese hospitality ...
the evening breeze always blows, luckily, but the heat is still very strong. According to locals, this temperature is normal for the season, but not the wind. What would that be! The next day, we meet a couple of young French, moored in the river with their Ombrine 8 m. They live here year round, and try to survive by making the masonry in the fincas to retype.
The village is replenished only twice per month, per truck. Gwillem we propose to take us in his old R 5 Mertola to do the grocery shopping, 25 km. In theory, the Guadiana can be traced back to Mertola. But the sandbars at water and rocks to try to discourage shipment, except with a practice area.
record: 41 degrees in the shade and the wind calmed down. " We buy cheap tarp to try to make an awning covering the whole boat letting the little air there a. 35 ° in the boat at night, we prefer to sleep in the cockpit. But the morning temperature "falls" to 20 °, which awakens us.
Last day to Pomarao, where I made a few videos. The breeze has picked up strength. Farewell friends English and Portuguese in this part of Europe after "the last true wilderness area" after Gwillem. We descend the river with a stop at Laranjeiras, along a small jetty to meet us the next day at Ayamonte.
During our stay, which lasted a week Pomarao fact, we saw very few boats pass: not even a half-dozen. Grand'monde not take the trouble to go up so high, and those who came were turned back. For lovers of the picturesque, calm and tranquility, including myself, the scenery is insured in this country still virgin tourist. Only the heat was tempered a little stay, but it is true that it was the heatwave in France, so ...
We then continue our journey towards the lagoon Faro-Olhao, the Isle Culatra a strange land which I will discuss another time. 
Guy
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