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"My island, I searched far and wide, until I realized that my island is my boat "(G. Janichon)

past three years, where I had the chance to live aboard my boat, to alternate ports and anchorages, wintering and cruises, I have often thought about this sentence especially in recent times, before stopping for reasons beyond my control ...

Some get their island to the other side of the world, whereas permanent life boat is already a world in itself, which is comparable to nothing else. If they can add to the joys earned from a great trip, no doubt they will be thrilled.

The world nomads water can not be understood by the very people who constitute it. A world of joys and pleasures of daily discoveries, not just a collection of postcards, but the rich and varied human encounters it brings. We are all so connected by the same passion, and above all we share the same lifestyle and probably the main thing.

Oh! of course everything is not always rosy, there is the price for this kind of freedom: the galleys various bullshit the engine, the nights almost white, and sometimes even small prayers that "it takes", or that it does "not more annoyed" But when

it stops when you must sit the bag down, find ways of life that we had become strangers, worries that we had no idea, strange hectic world around us, well then, that does it hurt! It is an amputation without anesthesia. A void, a craving ... Yes, the journey to the sea, life boat, is a drug, a hard drug.
For my part, I expect that when I can start to find the underwater world. I do not know if it is that of happiness, but that suits me better.

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NOMADS






They are in them the wisdom of their folly, that of wanting to escape to a world in which they do not recognize ...


"A mi no me gusta los gitanos del Mar. .." (I hate the sea gypsies). The big English mechanic I had in front of me has used this term for the first time, and I thought it was fair enough.

As long as I had enough to pay for its repair, I would still be excused from his thoughts!

gypsies of the sea .. The sea nomads.

At sea, on land as well as elsewhere, there are two types: sedentary and nomadic. Perhaps this second type he goes back from the depths of age, when before settling in one place, men were moving permanently ...

Nowadays, the need for a permanent life boat, and the desire for a sea voyage covers reality many faces

mutual fund at all, you can feel the love of travel, discovery, and especially the sea (because other means of travel available)

For some, this will be the culmination and realization of a dream, finally available after a lifetime of toil.

For others, it will also and especially what I call the "positive leakage", the desire to leave a life form that does not satisfy them or more, to find values that society is unable to provide.

motivations of those who share can be so different, and the reasons to combine.

But there may be a hidden cause, the more deeply buried in the heart of man ... The

to get lost in the immensity, plunging back into childhood, rebaigner in amniotic fluid of the sea-mother? So loved, so hated, or caressing beautiful bitch ...

Once started, the nomads are often the same places. This is normal, because "like attracts like". It is a floating community that is done and rearranged according to the roads, which converge or diverge.

That's one of the charms of this life: what would the desert without the Tuareg? What would the landscape without human presence?

approach other cultures, discovery of other types of companies, while remaining in the marine world, one that became theirs. This

marine world so rich and diverse, made of alternating crossings of solitude and warmth found.

Among those that called the sea, there will be politicians who will continue the journey, others will stop en route for various reasons: financial, family, or simply because it was not really on their way ...

Some will experience this life for a few months or years ... Others adopt it permanently.

Because we do not make any illusion: the great journey of never let intact.

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MARINE LAGOON-OLHAO









Lagoon OLHAO


Algarve - South Portugal



entire southern tip of the Algarve is a mixture of earth and water, large lagoon where the sea enters only through narrow passes. This is the ultimate goal of "BAHIA" ...

From the exit of the Rio Guadiana in Cape Santa Maria, main entrance of the lagoon, there is only thirty miles to go. We enjoy the ebb and say goodbye to River. Driven by a north wind, the banks soon parading.

At the exit, the sea is beautiful, and we take a small shortcut among the sandbanks, the pollster telling us between 2 m and 1 m 50. But after two hours, the wind dropped and the engines are started.

We stand at a safe distance from the coast, because fisheries seaward. By a mirage, we see the dunes as tall as cliffs, while their height does not exceed a few meters.

Apart Tavira, several passes are unmarked connect the lagoon with the ocean, forming small islands of sand. But we must seek the main entrance to the lighthouse in Santa Maria.

It is important to go with the flow, because even in neap tides, it is strong in the pass. This mass of water trapped in between and land evacuated by a narrow channel. The regulars of the Morbihan Gulf would not be bewildered!

It is equally advisable to enter the lagoon on a clear day, the wind against the tide can create challenging conditions. We shall feel when our departure.

After we leave the lighthouse to starboard, we pride ourselves on the markup of entry, and then we feel the full force of the flow, which propels us inside. The banks soon parading, the buoys are laid in swirls of water load.

In fact, only the bottleneck is subject to this pressure, because very soon, once inside, everything is calm and slows. Many fishing boats are wet along the beach.

Far away on our left, we distinguish Faro. A little on our right Olhao. The lagoon is divided into two main channels trails leading to these two cities. But yet the sea is almost full, it is a vast lake, dotted with many poles that indicate the benches.

must carefully follow the signs, for without it the risk of stranding are great, even at high tide, if it is not convenient places.

We pass on our right Culatra Island, the place we choose to wet. It has been indicated by several friends of the "loop multihull" ... For now we see that many boats on moorings or anchor in front of the pier tip Caïs.

The fishing village sheds Culatra extends over the dune, low houses, many of whom come to the beach. Can we distinguish

poles behind a point, that "we must overcome. Sounder depths indicates strongly December parishes: 10 m it moves quickly to 2 m and 1 m! We're going to color water: blue-green, it must pass, yellow-ocher shallows ...

Cove is a perfect shelter, almost circular in shape, and the pass is narrow. Some two dozen multihulls is stranded on strike, amor for most tides of spring tides.

Basically, only, I am surprised to recognize the trimaran buddy "Zampano," known in France at various times. We'll talk.

We position ourselves at the center of the cove, and anchored in a 50 m of water. The noise of the chain stopped, we are at the center of silence ... No cars on the island of Culatra, no noise other than a fisherman who falls off toward the village. We are at the end of the world ...

Annex after launching, I oar to the boat "Zampano" who, in good hermit ocean, watching me get inside his boat. Big surprise, discussions, and invited aboard for a drink. It remains to dinner tonight (the other days for that matter!)

After a tour of the Atlantic in a mono, he built the trimaran 17 m of plywood, and now lived here for seven long years. This means he knows the area well, the habits and customs of its inhabitants. Among

multihulls stranded on the beach, many are vacant, some occupied by their owners. Often loners, English, German, Dutch, came to ask their Wharram Culatra on strike, and perhaps waiting for the tide is high enough to go ...

Others have definitively abandoned the idea of brand new navigation, and found in this piece of land lost to a shelter ... and free!

is the case of the boyfriend, who had to push her a sort of HB 30 hp, rusting at the coast, and has recovered to propel a 9.9 that runs on a roll!
Suffice to say it leaves more rarely its handle.

the night, "Bahia" has failed in the herbarium mud lining the bottom. Unsuccessful test of descent: the mud is too soft and you sink above the knee. We will wait for high tide to get attached.

Some two hundred yards separating us from the ocean. Crossing the dunes, we'll take a bath. Wave formed, and we barboton in rolls ...

The next day, waking at 6 am. It's time to go aground on the beach and the sea begins to descend. An anchor on the back, toe, front shot on the wreck of a canoe, fishing which nothing remains but the skeleton, and we ask flat (PHOTO) The post-

noon, we will cross the village to take the shuttle bus to the city Culatra of Olhao. The streets are lined with sand, narrow, winding through the small houses, some very pretty. To homes of fishermen, permanent residents, were joined residences of "city people" who find in this place for rest and reflection.

The contrast is great on arriving in Olhao, noisy and rather dirty city. Once the supply is, we identify the new marina, not yet complete. Several boats are hulks, and if they receive no amenities, free is an advantage!

In the evening, back to the boat, the breeze rises from the earth, bringing with it all the daytime heat buildup. It is difficult to sleep other than in the cockpit.

The next day we come out of the cove to anchor farther along the shore of the island. We seek grope in the passage between the benches, sometimes in less than a meter of water!
We clearly see the sand beneath the scroll hulls, and I expect to plant me a moment to another. As the flood, it would not be very serious.

Finally we arrive safely at the place chosen to spend the night, and once more "Bahia" wrecked it without even noticing.

It's Sunday, and many small boats (and unfortunately some jet-skis, even here!) Crisscross the lake. But by evening he no one left, and we can enjoy the quiet in nightfall.

It is time to leave this strange place, water and sand. We are much closer to the pass NE of the island, but it is not marked, and for several days as the swell was swollen, and the surf breaking discourage any attempt.

relongerons We therefore leave the island to the lagoon from the main channel. The ebb tide pushing us, the boat accelerates. The swell of him faces south, and creates a few hundred meters a cauldron in which "Bahia" is shaking.

imagine what that must be beginning with a gale! The pass would be impractical to move on ...


Olhao The lagoon is a paradise for sailing dinghies and multihulls. To all my friends who are fortunate to have a small draft, I highly recommend cruising in these waters. No doubt they will not regret it.

Guy

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GUADIANA FARO, THE RIVER WILD

given the enthusiastic description of buddies who Mariners had passed, "BAHIA" pointed his bow over the Rio Guadiana in southern Portugal. It has was not disappointed.


After descending along the English coast, and the passage of the Strait of Gibraltar, so we found the waters of the Atlantic, we left three years ago. We must therefore get used to the tides and currents, the "Big Blue" and its dolce vita tend to sleep a little sailor with the ease it provides, in addition to his sudden anger sometimes.

We have before us the Bay of Cadiz, with the ultimate goal in the Algarve, its going up rivers, including the Rio Guadiana to the border between Spain and Portuguese. Reading guides (sometimes old), but especially the incentive of several friends had been dating the main destination of the cruise.

The first step is to Sact Petri River, south of Cadiz. Who said tidal currents said, sandbars, and alignments (not very visible). Then it will be an anchor (the marinas are excluded) at the entrance to the river of Huelva, large industrial city, which really does not attract us.

Cap on El Rompido, a river separated from the Atlantic by a narrow dune that stretches nearly five miles. Sandbanks, a buoy Landing moved and strong currents will give us some heat to enter. " Cons by wetting before the village is friendly to both headlights, and we spend several days at anchor in the river upstream. Solitude and tranquility guaranteed. There simply walk across the dunes - off a few hundred yards - to go across sea-bathing!

It is time to see this famous Guadiana, which we heard so much good. The wind is pretty cool for several days, force 5-6, reinforcing the afternoon. The entrance to the Guadiana, crowded schools, is well marked laterally, and offers no major problems. It is recommended to go with the flow, which will push us to Vila Real de San Antonio on the Portuguese side.

The city stands out clearly from the English cities: coquettish ornaments and houses, clean streets. By changing the contrast of country is strong. Almost opposite of Vila Real is the English town of Ayamonte, where we will stop in return. In recent years, a suspension bridge links the two shores and two countries, just after Ayamonte. The available height is 22 m high sea, the mast of "Bahia" pass without problems with his 14m50. As the day, the wind dies down a lot at slack low tide is the time we choose to ascend the river, so we returned the waves. The banks once past the bridge is quite flat.

We see many fincas in ruins, on each bank. As to the return, the banks otok, vegetation becomes denser. And 3 h after the start, we drop anchor at Guerreiros. A wharf is connected by a passerrelle to the bank. The village seems asleep a few lights, crushed heat. It must be said that the temperature approaching 35 degrees! No tax payable, the dock is free as long as there is room. Only a few small fishing boats are moored.

The next day, some nice Belgian moored behind us. They are roundtrip Belgium-Guadiana every year! Fortunately a wind strong enough to temper the heat, and the local beer too ... Somehow we manage to make ourselves understood with a fisherman at the local bar, which tells us that further up the river, it is even hotter. This is where we go ...

The third day of departure is decided. Always a head wind between 20 and 25 knots. After multiple attempts to repair the HB of the Annex, a mechanic from the corner managed to do spit for 5 euros and a glass of Malaga! Unfortunately it makes the soul shortly after. (Motor, not the mechanic!)

Depart 16 am, with the beginning of the stream. The river banks are wild. We pass the small town of Alcoutim, which makes for a village on the English shore. Many boats are anchored there, anchors or mooring. This is the final destination for many of those upriver.

We still twists in the maze, more and more steep and wooded. Herons and storks are only slightly disturbed by our passage. Finally one last elbow Pomarao discovered, the terminus of our ascent. A small town warmth and crushed white, beneath which are two jetties. It is 38 degrees in the shade, "only" 30 ° in the boat!

We descend to the ground and assemble in the village, only to refresh our coffee shop. This is the "sociedad" bar where we taste the City "sagres locale for ... 40 cts euros.! On the terrace Donminique River. We are quickly informed Gwillem and his wife, an English couple who have chosen Pomarao as places to live aboard their sailboat, Richard English, too, the painter who lives on a lonely old Colin Archer ferro, waiting to move into the ruins he retypes on one bank. Neighbors table, without saying a word, we tend garlic bread and chorizo. The Portuguese hospitality ...

the evening breeze always blows, luckily, but the heat is still very strong. According to locals, this temperature is normal for the season, but not the wind. What would that be! The next day, we meet a couple of young French, moored in the river with their Ombrine 8 m. They live here year round, and try to survive by making the masonry in the fincas to retype.

The village is replenished only twice per month, per truck. Gwillem we propose to take us in his old R 5 Mertola to do the grocery shopping, 25 km. In theory, the Guadiana can be traced back to Mertola. But the sandbars at water and rocks to try to discourage shipment, except with a practice area.

record: 41 degrees in the shade and the wind calmed down. " We buy cheap tarp to try to make an awning covering the whole boat letting the little air there a. 35 ° in the boat at night, we prefer to sleep in the cockpit. But the morning temperature "falls" to 20 °, which awakens us.

Last day to Pomarao, where I made a few videos. The breeze has picked up strength. Farewell friends English and Portuguese in this part of Europe after "the last true wilderness area" after Gwillem. We descend the river with a stop at Laranjeiras, along a small jetty to meet us the next day at Ayamonte.

During our stay, which lasted a week Pomarao fact, we saw very few boats pass: not even a half-dozen. Grand'monde not take the trouble to go up so high, and those who came were turned back. For lovers of the picturesque, calm and tranquility, including myself, the scenery is insured in this country still virgin tourist. Only the heat was tempered a little stay, but it is true that it was the heatwave in France, so ...

We then continue our journey towards the lagoon Faro-Olhao, the Isle Culatra a strange land which I will discuss another time.

Guy