Lagoon OLHAO
Algarve - South Portugal
entire southern tip of the Algarve is a mixture of earth and water, large lagoon where the sea enters only through narrow passes. This is the ultimate goal of "BAHIA" ...
From the exit of the Rio Guadiana in Cape Santa Maria, main entrance of the lagoon, there is only thirty miles to go. We enjoy the ebb and say goodbye to River. Driven by a north wind, the banks soon parading.
At the exit, the sea is beautiful, and we take a small shortcut among the sandbanks, the pollster telling us between 2 m and 1 m 50. But after two hours, the wind dropped and the engines are started.
We stand at a safe distance from the coast, because fisheries seaward. By a mirage, we see the dunes as tall as cliffs, while their height does not exceed a few meters.
Apart Tavira, several passes are unmarked connect the lagoon with the ocean, forming small islands of sand. But we must seek the main entrance to the lighthouse in Santa Maria.
It is important to go with the flow, because even in neap tides, it is strong in the pass. This mass of water trapped in between and land evacuated by a narrow channel. The regulars of the Morbihan Gulf would not be bewildered!
It is equally advisable to enter the lagoon on a clear day, the wind against the tide can create challenging conditions. We shall feel when our departure.
After we leave the lighthouse to starboard, we pride ourselves on the markup of entry, and then we feel the full force of the flow, which propels us inside. The banks soon parading, the buoys are laid in swirls of water load.
In fact, only the bottleneck is subject to this pressure, because very soon, once inside, everything is calm and slows. Many fishing boats are wet along the beach.
Far away on our left, we distinguish Faro. A little on our right Olhao. The lagoon is divided into two main channels trails leading to these two cities. But yet the sea is almost full, it is a vast lake, dotted with many poles that indicate the benches.
must carefully follow the signs, for without it the risk of stranding are great, even at high tide, if it is not convenient places.
We pass on our right Culatra Island, the place we choose to wet. It has been indicated by several friends of the "loop multihull" ... For now we see that many boats on moorings or anchor in front of the pier tip Caïs.
The fishing village sheds Culatra extends over the dune, low houses, many of whom come to the beach. Can we distinguish
poles behind a point, that "we must overcome. Sounder depths indicates strongly December
parishes: 10 m it moves quickly to 2 m and 1 m! We're going to color water: blue-green, it must pass, yellow-ocher shallows ... Cove is a perfect shelter, almost circular in shape, and the pass is narrow. Some two dozen multihulls is stranded on strike, amor for most tides of spring tides.
Basically, only, I am surprised to recognize the trimaran buddy "Zampano," known in France at various times. We'll talk.
We position ourselves at the center of the cove, and anchored in a 50 m of water. The noise of the chain stopped, we are at the center of silence ... No cars on the island of Culatra, no noise other than a fisherman who falls off toward the village. We are at the end of the world ...
Annex after launching, I oar to the boat "Zampano" who, in good hermit ocean, watching me get inside his boat. Big surprise, discussions, and invited aboard for a drink. It remains to dinner tonight (the other days for that matter!)
After a tour of the Atlantic in a mono, he built the trimaran 17 m of plywood, and now lived here for seven long years. This means he knows the area well, the habits and customs of its inhabitants. Among
multihulls stranded on the beach, many are vacant, some occupied by their owners. Often loners, English, German, Dutch, came to ask their Wharram Culatra on strike, and perhaps waiting for the tide is high enough to go ...
Others have definitively abandoned the idea of brand new navigation, and found in this piece of land lost to a shelter ... and free!
is the case of the boyfriend, who had to push her a sort of HB 30 hp, rusting at the coast, and has recovered to propel a 9.9 that runs on a roll!
Suffice to say it leaves more rarely its handle.
the night, "Bahia" has failed in the herbarium mud lining the bottom. Unsuccessful test of descent: the mud is too soft and you sink above the knee. We will wait for high tide to get attached.
Some two hundred yards separating us from the ocean. Crossing the dunes, we'll take a bath. Wave formed, and we barboton in rolls ...
The next day, waking at 6 am. It's time to go aground on the beach and the sea begins to descend. An anchor on the back, toe, front shot on the wreck of a canoe, fishing which nothing remains but the skeleton, and we ask flat (PHOTO) The post-
noon, we will cross the village to take the shuttle bus to the city Culatra of Olhao. The streets are lined with sand, narrow, winding through the small houses, some very pretty. To homes of fishermen, permanent residents, were joined residences of "city people" who find in this place for rest and reflection.
The contrast is great on arriving in Olhao, noisy and rather dirty city. Once the supply is, we identify the new marina, not yet complete. Several boats are hulks, and if they receive no amenities, free is an advantage!
In the evening, back to the boat, the breeze rises from the earth, bringing with it all the daytime heat buildup. It is difficult to sleep other than in the cockpit.
The next day we come out of the cove to anchor farther along the shore of the island. We seek grope in the passage between the benches, sometimes in less than a meter of water!
We clearly see the sand beneath the scroll hulls, and I expect to plant me a moment to another. As the flood, it would not be very serious.
Finally we arrive safely at the place chosen to spend the night, and once more "Bahia" wrecked it without even noticing.
It's Sunday, and many small boats (and unfortunately some jet-skis, even here!) Crisscross the lake. But by evening he
no one left, and we can enjoy the quiet in nightfall. It is time to leave this strange place, water and sand. We are much closer to the pass NE of the island, but it is not marked, and for several days as the swell was swollen, and the surf breaking discourage any attempt.
relongerons We therefore leave the island to the lagoon from the main channel. The ebb tide pushing us, the boat accelerates. The swell of him faces south, and creates a few hundred meters a cauldron in which "Bahia" is shaking.
imagine what that must be beginning with a gale! The pass would be impractical to move on ...
Olhao The lagoon is a paradise for sailing dinghies and multihulls. To all my friends who are fortunate to have a small draft, I highly recommend cruising in these waters. No doubt they will not regret it.
Guy
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